Founded in Osaka in 1993, FULLCOUNT is a Japanese denim brand known for its fully domestically-produced, high-quality denim collections. The denim is made from rare, extra-long staple Zimbabwe cotton (certified organic), woven using vintage shuttle looms in Okayama Prefecture. The result is denim that rivals vintage pieces in its fading characteristics and offers a level of comfort that has earned it a reputation as “impossible to quit once worn.” Today, FULLCOUNT is not only admired in Japan but is also highly regarded overseas as a leading name in “Japanese denim.”
This month’s issue focuses on the production site and history of FULLCOUNT’s denim fabric.
The Production Background of FULLCOUNT Denim – Unchanged for Over 30 Years
Striving to Create Fabric Like Vintage Denim
FULLCOUNT jeans are acclaimed for their unique comfort and beautiful fading, born from extensive research into vintage denim. At the heart of this craftsmanship lies the denim fabric itself.
Since shortly after its founding, FULLCOUNT has used Zimbabwe cotton for its denim. Though once considered “too soft for jeans,” this cotton—with its long fibers, strength, and softness—proved to be the ideal material when pursuing the twist and weave found in vintage denim yarns. FULLCOUNT continues to use this material over 30 years later.
But no matter how exceptional the material, it won't recreate vintage texture unless it’s woven properly. Before launching the brand, founder Mikiharu Tsujita believed that to achieve the vintage look and feel, production needed to mirror historical methods—specifically using vintage shuttle looms. Alongside industry peers, he toured factories across Japan to find a producer capable of delivering such fabric.
However, operating shuttle looms from the 1940s—the golden era of vintage denim—posed a maintenance challenge and was seen as a business risk. These old looms also operated slowly and were being phased out in favor of more efficient machines that better suited the era’s push for speed and mass production.
Vintage Looms with Special Weaving Instructions
In the 1990s, while the fashion and denim markets were expanding, one factory in Okayama still operated vintage shuttle looms. As that factory was preparing to switch to modern machines, Tsujita and his peers made a plea: “Once our brand is established, we’ll place large orders—please continue using these machines.” This agreement allowed them to produce jeans using denim woven on those vintage looms.
For over 30 years since, FULLCOUNT’s denim fabric has been made in that same factory. As the global spotlight turned to “Japanese denim,” the factory was flooded with production requests from other brands. However, with only a limited number of looms, only a handful of brands could be accommodated. Thanks to FULLCOUNT’s uninterrupted ordering record spanning three decades, several of the looms remain dedicated solely to the brand.
What’s more, FULLCOUNT provides special weaving instructions even within that factory, making its fabric truly one-of-a-kind. The “weaving recipe” remains a closely guarded secret. The use of Zimbabwe cotton, vintage looms, and FULLCOUNT’s proprietary weaving techniques result in the signature softness and beautiful fading that define the brand.
A pair of FULLCOUNT jeans worn for about five years and repaired multiple times (owned by a customer)
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKjbPXtPraw/?igsh=MXBia3ljejlhM2trZA%3D%3D
Today, the factory continues to operate its vintage looms at full capacity. Skilled artisans monitor machine conditions daily, performing careful maintenance and sourcing parts from around the world to keep operations running.
If FULLCOUNT hadn’t discovered this factory in the 1990s, or if it hadn’t placed ongoing orders, the story might have ended differently. It is precisely because the brand overcame those “what ifs” that FULLCOUNT—and Japanese denim more broadly—is now recognized both in Japan and around the world.
In the next issue, we’ll explore FULLCOUNT’s classic denim jacket.
About FULLCOUNT
Founded in 1993 in Osaka by Mikiharu Tsujita, FULLCOUNT is a Japanese denim brand known for its use of Zimbabwe cotton and vintage shuttle-loom weaving in Okayama. FULLCOUNT denim offers the unique fading and comfort that rivals vintage jeans, earning a reputation as a true representative of Japanese Denim both domestically and worldwide.
https://fullcount-online.com
https://www.instagram.com/fullcount_official/